Beattys Overseas

John’s long-awaited dream to ski the Alps came true when we took a day trip to Obertauern, a ski village about 90 minutes south of Salzburg. We bought a combo transport ticket, which took us by train to the city of Rasdadt, where a city bus picked us up and drove up the mountain into Obertauern.

Obertauern, baby!Now, this is where we became a little confused. Obertauern isn’t a ski resort… it’s an entire village. So, where do you ski and how to you begin? The Tourist Information office told us that you buy your lift tickets anywhere in town, and just hop from lift to lift. But, we wondered, each lift seems to be hundreds of yards apart from each other with buildings and parking lots in between them – how does this work? Each of us have skiied in the States, but always at a singular ski resort, with a primary lodge as a 'homebase' and lifts that start at a main point near the 'homebase lodge.'  

We were a little out of our comfort zone with this giant ski community. We innocently inquired “Where are the lockers?” to which we were informed do not exist here. “Didn’t you bring your car?” they asked, incredulous that we were so poorly planned. “Nope; we’re tourists form Salzburg. Here for the day. No idea what we’re doing...” Somehow we prevailed, finding the one ski shop in town that rents clothes as well as equipment and buying ourselves two all-day lift passes. And, with a little gumption and John's charming smile, we talked our ski rental place into holding our shoes and Whit’s purse while we hit the slopes.

The conditions were good, and it was a beautiful sunny day, so we were in for a good time. It’s been a while since either of us have skied, but we hopped onto the first lift for a ‘blue hill’ (clearly listed as ‘Easy’ on the map), and were heading up into the sky on a cushy leather seat.  Off the lift we went and looked down onto what (to me, at least) seemed like K2. Trying to be brave, I did my best snow-plow (pizza slice, whatever you prefer for imagery) with my skis and tried to ski alongside my darling husband.  But, gravity took control, and I somehow spun around backwards, went upside-down, lost a ski, and slid down the hill on my back about 25 yards before John even turned around to notice that I wasn’t with him. A very nice German skier stopped to help me, but I was so pissy and frustrated that I basically shooed him away from me (“No, danke. No no, danke! No!” a.k.a. Thanks, but, get away from me. I am embarrassed and mad and I don’t want your help).  Fifteen minutes later, I retrieved my ski, gathered my composure and snow-plowed my way down the rest of the hill to meet up with John. And, that was only 1/8 of the way down the slope. It was a rough first run, but John was very patient with my defeated & angry attitude, and we made it to the bottom together in one-piece.

We found our way to another lift (but we had to walk up a small hill near the main street which, in those rented ski boots, was none too fun), which took us right up to a hilltop restaurant bar... How do you say "Jackpot!" in German??  We stopped for a mid-day lunch of goulash and frankfurters and – of course – a few brews.  Soon thereafter, John was ready to head down to ski, but I was so comfortable sipping on a beer in the sunshine, so I sent him on his merry little way.  I would sit, sipping hot chocolate or a beer while John went down the hill, came back up the lift, waved at me at the lounge and skiied back down.  Repeat process.  Soon enough, I gathered enough courage to brave these Austrian ‘easy blue hills,’ and we did a few runs together -- without any other catostrophic wipeouts, thankyouverymuch.

All in all, it was a great way to satiate John’s desire to get out and ski some Alpine peaks. We had a blast together (as we almost always do!) and John may come back to Obertauern during our stay for another ski day.  I, however, may stay here and go on The Sound of Music tour.

- Whitney