Beattys Overseas

Our first Ryan Air flight to Derry was fast, easy and efficient (no wonder they call themselves the On-Time Airline!).  When we got off the plane at the diminutive Derry Airport, John was smiling like a little boy.  We drove into Donegal town, and checked into our adorable B&B, Rhu Gorse, on Lough (Lake) Eske.  We treated ourselves to a ridiculously expensive nice dinner, and went to find a pub with live music.  We had been directed by our B&B proprietor to find Dunions, a nice local place where there wouldn't be too many partying young people (it was the weekend before Halloween, so there were a few costumed rowdy groups at other bars in town). 

We found the place friendly and welcoming, and the traditional Irish music being performed in the back room kept us company for the first few minutes.  Gerry singings with the band - Click to watch Video! Then, we met Gerry, a wonderful guy from Dublin who was on a "wee holiday" in Donegal for the weekend.  Gerry happens to be an excellent source of Irish history and a breathtaking singer.  He sang along with the band a few times and, after the band had stopped for the night, sang a cappella and had the pub crowd fixated on every note.  The night was a success, and we went back to the adorable B&B with big plans for the rest of our stay in Ireland.

- Whitney

My great-Aunt Bridgie told us during a recent visit that seeing my family in Culacrick in the town of Annagary, Donegal would not be a problem, even on short notice.  Or, even, with no notice at all. She was also very excited at the prospect that we'd visit "Den Johhny" the house where she and her older sister (my grandmother), Annie [nee O'Donnell] Gallagher, were born.  They were the first of 10 children born to Daniel and Gainnie (Grace) O'Donnell.  

Aunt Bridgie regaled us with great stories about her childhood home and home town, then gave us two contact names, no numbers and said to send her love.  When I asked how I'd get in touch with her cousin Rosha Ferry and the rest of the cousins she said, "Just get there.  The word will get out that you're there, and people will find you."  I was so proud of my family!

Now, I had been to Annagary with my immediate family and the Love's back in 2000, so I had some recollection of the town and the cemetery behind the church where my great grandparents on my Mom's side are buried along with their daughter, Sarah Roarty and her husband, Uncle Jimmy.  Even though we hadn't called a soul to announce ourselves, based on Aunt Bridgie's confidence I was not concerned at all.  Well, maybe just a little bit.

 I'd been telling Whitney during our long drive North from Donegal town how "the cousin's" had operated, both in Donegal and in New York.  In between her moans about queasiness in her tummy from the road I told her about the visits to and from Ireland and Scotland, and how the cousins (my Mom, her siblings, cousins in the USA and those in Ireland and Scotland) had been getting together over the years, and how wonderfully the old relationships have endured and new ones been created, all across the pond. 

We arrived early afternoon Monday having taken the N56, certainly the longest, curviest, windiest, waviest and bumpiest two lane highway ever cut into the earth. Following Aunt Bridgie's instructions we went straight to the Annagary Post Office to seek out Bridge Dora, our 1st contact person.  Only Monday happened to be a bank holiday, and the post office was closed.  What we didn't know was that Bridge Dora lives right behind the office, and we could have met her had we only rang her bell.  We are very sorry we missed her, but will certainly see her on our next visit!

On then we went down the road, thinking that I'd find the cemetery and have to leave town with out saying hello to anyone I was related to.  I was also feeling bit nervous about my ability to find "Den Johnny".  Aunt Bridgie had given Whitney and I clear instructions to also seek out cousin Una Ferry, her own cousin Rosha Ferry's Daughter.  Well, I had no idea who was who.  I had heard the names many many times over the years but always thought that my Mom or her sisters' Pat, Grace or Rose Marie would always be present to clear up any introductions.  Oops!

Feeling a bit lost we soon pulled up to Benjie's pub, where we introduced ourselves to the bartender and explained our predicament.  He smiled and said "maybe one of the boys can help ya."  Just then one of the 3 gents in the pub introduced himself.   "Sure", said Bernard.  "I know Rosha Ferry.  Do you have a car?  I'll take you to her."   After some lovely conversation, in which Bernard informed us that we'd not only taken the long route, but also the most nauseating, so much so that he only travels it alone, in order to have time to be car sick  :) we headed out.  Off we went up the road, just one quick turnoff and soon we saw Bernard pulling over to speak to a woman standing in front of a house.   I thought for sure he was lost and that we faced a long day ahead! As it turns out, we did have a long day ahead, but with great reason.  This woman WAS Rosha Ferry! 

Two minutes earlier we had been lost and were planning a hasty exit from my ancestor's hometown, the current home of many of the cousin's we had looked so forward to seeing.  Now we were out of the car, kisses and hugs, whisked into the house in front of a gorgeous fire, and Rosha put the call out that "the yanks" had arrived.

Visiting with the Ferry family

Then in came her daughters Una and Anne, and their cousin Patrick, and Una's daughter Marian, and what a fantastic time we had!  While the introductions were still happening, I admitted to my beautiful and understanding cousins that I was under the impression that they were a lot older than they actually were; since my 96-year old Aunt Bridgie has spoken of them so often, I assumed they were all in their 80s! Soon platters of delicious sandwiches appeared with a pots of tea and chocolates and sweets, and I was forced to eat until I thought I'd be rolled out of the house.  The ladies were fantastically sweet and kind.  The calls went out, as Aunt Bridgie said they would, and in 50 minutes I had taken four phone calls on Rosha's line. 

Whitney and I soon had dinner plans for later on, a place to sleep that night, and arrangements were being made for our Scotland leg to visit Auntie Mary, Bridgie's sister, in Glasgow!  Even Auntie Mary rang the phone to welcome us!

It was incredible.  Whitney and I laughed and laughed.  We loved meeting everyone.  We talked about the family, and all of our lives, and we felt so at home.  After Rosha took care of arranging for us to see Den Johnny's, we all headed outside for a quick photo, said our goodbyes and Whitney and I headed down the road. 

One of the calls I had taken at Rosha's was from cousin Sadie, who insisted on driving from Letterkenny (45 minutes to an hour away!) to bring the keys to open Den Johnny's, which is still in the family and used by its owner, cousin Michael O'Donnell, during the summers.  She was joined there by our cousin Daniel Roarty (son of Sara and Jimmy) and his daughters Sheila & Kathleen, who all graciously braved the cold, wet day to light a fire in Den Johnny's and sit and catch up with us.  We had last been together there before, when they hosted me at Den Johnny's the first time in 2000. 
at DenJohnny's!The girls are almost grown now, and funny and beautiful, and again we had a great time.  We walked around inside and outside, and talked about the lives that the O'Donnells had.  We talked about the ones who emigrated, and the sickness, and the tragedy of Aunt Sara.  We talked about life in that house and those born after the oldest had left, and the lives of Aunt Bridgie and Annie and Mary and then Daniel pointed out that the family had never once been together under one roof. 

And we were humbled.

Again, we said our thank you's and goodbyes in front of Den Johnny's, and took some pics and hugged and off we went to Leitier - a lovely area off of the Gweebara River - Donegal to meet more cousins!  

Another call I took at Rosha's was from cousin Grace [O'Donnell] McGeehan, who graciously opened her stunning home for a delicious supper, great conversation and a beautifully warm bed.   Since her home was a bit off the main road, arrangements were made for her brother, Daniel O'Donnell to meet us at a pub near her home and lead us back.  Well, I'll admit I'd done a fair share of driving, and it was dark, and by the time we found the pub it was late and we'd passed it at least once going too far.  We were lagging.

When we entered the pub, I didn't recognize anyone, so I was again a bit deflated.  We stepped up to the bar and as my eyes searched the room, I took out my mobile to once again pester Grace with apologies and questions.  I then heard the gentleman to my left say "You can put your phone away."   A handshake and a smile later we were whisked back to Grace's where we shared a huge delicious home cooked meal.  We were heartily welcomed by Grace, and we loved talking with her daughter Aileen, who has recently left Dublin where she was teaching elementary school students in a very tough neighborhood;  so tough, I'd seen the exact neighborhood once on a BBC special!  Grace's husband Danny was missed, as he was away on holiday.

Cousin Daniel's stories (and his recognition of my status as a charmer) endeared him to me almost as much as when he said, 30 seconds into our mention of visiting Glasgow, "I guess you're stayin' with me, then."  What a great guy.  When I attempted to explain who was who back in New York over dinner, he said, "You don't need to explain the relationships to me, I know who everyone is," he proved it by entertaining us with his great travel tales.  We look forward to his hospitality in Scotland.  He's even offered to pick us up at the airport, and he threatened to have the rest of the Scotland cousins come out so we might meet them as well!

John and Grace

Monday night at Grace's and Aileen's was truly wonderful, and today began with a lovely breakfast and chat with Grace, who spent the morning with us and made us feel like we were really welcome.   Her home isn't just aesthetically pleasing, but - like Rosha's beautiful home - it's a place where Whitney and I were made to feel wonderfully comfortable and cozy.  And we loved it!  Thank you!

- John

After we said our goodbyes to Grace and she mapped out our route on Tuesday morning, we made our way to Dunlewy. Dunlewy is the Donegal town where my Mother's Dad, Michael (Mickey Darby) Gallagher was from. Right before we left NYC for this trip I spoke with Aunt Pat Love who gave great directions (third house into town on the left, main road of town, I think, and also some background on Cousins Dermott and his wife Maggie Gallagher who we were going to see). I had met Dermott back in 2000 when we visited their home. But I also remembered that my parent's had spent such a wonderful time there during a trip they took with Aunt Dolores and Uncle John Power years before. As Dermott reminded me, the house was jammed with people and they all stayed up singing and talking till 5 a.m., as Maggie had arranged for all of the local cousins to come over for a party in honor of the Yank cousins! The guests arrived in a bus! This is a small town, so it was quite a show. Mom was very surprised and honored. I need only refer to the photo albums at my Dad's house to see what a great smiling time my parents had!

I was so looking forward to showing Whitney the Gallagher house site in Dunlewy, as it is located at the foot of Errigal Mountain, just above a beautiful lake. It is simply too stunning for words.
I also wanted to pet some sheep, but that was not to be :( 
Baaaaaa

Once again, though, I tired our hosts out with needless calls and timetables, only to be told not to worry. When I got Maggie on the line while we were enroute, she said, "John; PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE stop worrying. Don't bring anything but yourselves. In our house, you can come anytime. Just drop in when you can". We were soon there, and I found Dermott in the back of the house playing with his gorgeous granddaughter Moira, his Daughter Mary's little girl. Hours and hours passed over in front of a beautiful and hot peat heated stove with more delicious sandwiches, scones, and pots and pots of hot tea. Over and over Maggie and Dermott threatened us to eat everything! I told them one more bite and I'd need to nap on their sofa. Their response was to invite us to stay the night!

Dunlewy
Dermott was generous enough to take us in the car to Pop Gallagher's boyhood home right next door, which his own dad Brian Gallagher-the oldest of the brothers- had also been born in. He spent hours-literally-explaining to us 5 generations back in my Grandfather's family, along with remembrances and anecdotes from him and Maggie. I was amazed, and profoundly grateful for the knowledge, the food, the tour of Dunlewey, the tour of the old house which has been renovated and is lovely, and the tour of the brand new home his son Paul is having built next door (the views are incredible!). He also took us to the cemetery to visit his parent's grave, and down all the way into Poison Glenn, the amazingly picturesque village below his home.

As we were set to head for Letterkenny, our next stop in an attempt to meet my Dad's people, Maggie brought out a Gaelic book report her son had done about 20 years ago on the family lineage. In it was an incredible photo of my Grandfather home visiting Ireland back in April 1955. He is shown with his Mother, who died only 2 months later. Maggie gifted to photo to me, for which I am incredibly grateful. I'll scan it soon and post it here, too.

At last we said goodbye, and after kisses from the Ladies and a great big hug from Dermott we drove off. We made one last stop a few hundred feet up the road to see the original home of the Gallaghers. It is boarded up now, but I can envision its original strength and beauty. Dermott told us it is privately owned now. Perhaps someday we too can live in Dunlewey!

As I climbed back in the car from taking my last look, I drove off towards Letterkenny. I guess the entirety of the visits, and the love and kindness shown to us got the better of me. As I shed some tears, I thought of my Mom, and I thought that my Donegal Forbearers, who had ALL worked so hard through incredibly difficult circumstances, would be very proud of how Whitney and I have been treated these last two days. And how proud of them I was.

Whitney kindly asked if I wanted to pull over. No, I thought, I just want to get to Letterkenny and spend time with more of my family.

- John

Our departure from Dunlewey on Tuesday brought us into Letterkenny, a larger city in Donegal. It is here that some of John's father's relatives reside.  They are the McLaughlins who are known in the town as shoemakers, and as the guys who run the local boxing club.  John's great uncle John, in fact, was a Hall of Fame boxer, as is his son Jack.   

Letterkenny was fun and very friendly. We were lost when driving into the city, and when we stopped to ask a young man walking down the street if he knew the nearest internet cafe, he recognized our American accents and told us he had lived in California as a boy. Well, Whitney was thrilled and chatted him up about all the fires in Malibu & San Diego and oh-isn't-it-terrible and when did you move back to Ireland and do you miss California because I do, blah blah blah.  On a chance, John asks the boy ''Have you ever heard of the Letterkenny Boxing Club?'' And the boy smirks and say, ''Sure, I belong to it.''  Well, we should have known:  Just like all our experiences in Ireland thus far, the very person we ask happens to know exactly who we are looking for. 

We found a cozy inn to stay us for the night, which had Internet Access (thank God!), and in the morning we went out to find the McLaughlins.  Turns out, they live about 400 yds away from the inn where we had slept, and were so welcoming to us for a midday visit with tea, scones & biscuits.  When John mentioned Dillon's hotel, where we had spent the night, cousin Jack replied that the site of the current hotel was where his Mom's place of birth-a thatched cottage- had been.

John's father Danny has met & spent time with his Letterkenny cousins many times before, but for John is was only his second visit with them.  Jack and Máiréad have his father John living with them, who was in great spirits to have us visit.  John remembered visiting with everyone when Aunt Suzy was alive , and what a wonderful time they all had.  Jack's brother Niall also came to see us, and we had a wonderful time discussing family history together.  John McLaughlin was the master shoemaker in Letterkenny, and also an accomplished boxer who won a title in the Hall of Fame, and taught his sons about boxing at his Letterkenny Boxing Club.  Jack is a Hall of Fame boxer as well, and spends quite a bit of his time coaching at the Boxing Club.  Nile was a boxer as well, and a referee more recently.  We had such a nice time talking about great uncle John's life as a boy, and what he remembered of his sister, John's grandmother.  We couldn't stay with them long enough for a proper visit or to pore over family photos together, but that will be for the NEXT visit to the Emerald Isle!!!!!  Thank you for everything, McLaughlins!

- Whitney